Bring Back Manly Men
Film Photography Captured by Camryn Watt
“Bring Back Manly Men.” This blanket statement was made by conservative commentator, Candace Owens, after Harry Styles wore a beautiful gown on the cover of the December 2020 Vogue magazine. Her words not only discounted the artists self-expression, but reaffirmed stereotypes built upon years of history. Styles playfully responded to the comments by saying his photos were “manly” and that labels have no definitive meaning rather they are a mere reflection of societal ideas.
Harry Styles 2020 Vogue Shoot shot by Tyler Mitchell
There is no doubt history has worked toward creating a great divide between “femininity” and “masculinity” – two words that have become socially acceptable. Gender fluidity, however, was foreseen to be spiritual, powerful and influential in cultures outside of America. In Polynesian culture, Mahu is a phrase to describe humans who captivate feminine and masculine personality traits. Gender and sexuality was and still is celebrated to be a natural component of the human experience. The term “Nádleeh” narrated the ability for men to take on both female and male social roles within Native culture.
Within America, however, the divergence between what is “feminine” versus “masculine” has been clear cut. Nonetheless, the world is not black and white. Gender expression and self-identification should not be confined to labels, nor by social groups; it is ever-changing and there is great power within defining or identifying oneself without a specified title. Expressing oneself is a fluent and entirely personal process which should be untouched by others. Simply owning one's personal body, and what they themselves want to be, is monumental in itself without assigning a name. Historically, fashion did not adopt this tolerant mentality.
Wearing makeup, nail polish, long flowy clothing was once standard amongst men. White powder, rouge and red lipstick on men appears throughout history in various periods. Old Egypt and Rome are examples while the closest in European history is 18th century France and Germany. Elaborate make-up, lipstick, wigs and high heels were standard items for noblemen and viewed as a gender fluid practice. So, what changed? In the early 20th century, gender specific advertising created a culture in which “manhood” diverged men and women. This was a pivotal moment in history -- boys who once wore smocks and ruffles would now claim their masculinity by switching to ties, suit jackets and trousers. This transition between distinct silhouettes defined strong men reiterating the great divide between masculinity and femininity. Social progression, however, set in motion several stages within fashion history.
An Illustration dating back to the mid 19th Century
In 1968, unisex fashion became a trendy movement. Paris Runways featured silhouettes, sleek fabrics, and illustrative designs worn by both men and women. American Department stores responded to this movement by opening sections for Unisex shoppers. 1969, it seemed society had extinguished the progressive era to be a meer memory for several reasons. Much of society was, and still is, hesitant to a society lacking gender structure and distinction. Parents of an older generation, especially, recognized that without assembling their child's identity, children may discover their true self. Thus, the fashion period emphasized “his-n-hers'' clothing within advertising for years on, remaining a dominant influence
All the while, the women's liberation movement of the 60s and 70s further altered fashion and pop culture. Artists such as Elvis Presley, Jimi Hendrix, David Bowie, Mick Jagger and several others showcased sexual ambiguity. By the 1970s, fashion designers recognized the urgent reform imperative to evolutionizing gender fluid fashion.
Designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Rudi Gernreich and Yohji Yamamoto crafted creative and genderless pieces that are showcased within media, music artists, and culture today. By the 1990s, London and Paris Fashion shows popularized genderless pieces amongst brands, designers, and, later on, mainstream media.
It is no doubt that human identity is complex and an ever-changing process, but as humans we deserve far more acceptance than what history has allowed. While advertising has caused a great divide in what is and is not socially acceptable, pop culture is working voraciously to change those one-sided points of view. Jaiden Smith, Harry Styles, EJ Johnson, Johnny Weir, to name a few, have explored gender fluid styles which, in turn, have created groundbreaking moments in modern fashion. Thanks to media and pop culture of 2021 there are several Gender Neutral brands to explore. A few of these brands include Kingdom, TomBoyX, Nicopanda and I and M. All brands tap into experimental sustainable fabrics and manufacturing methods, BONUS!
To cut a long story short, Styles in a dress may be historically defined as feminine, yet Styles fashion is not defined to any determined description. To me, a “manly man” means confidence and comfort. A “manly man” is wearing a dress, suit, shirt or blouse. A “feminine man”, are also all of those things. Despite history, labels are dated, irrelevant, and confining. Damn the man and wear what you want, when you want, for yourself.
Jacob Heinkel shot by Sydney Volker
